Rectangular Toe for Toe Up SocksI'd heard of using a rectangle to begin a toe up sock but had never seen a pattern, so I came up with my own method. It uses a set of 4 dpns, but could easily be adapted to 5 dpn's if needed.
Knit a rectangle 8 sts wide and 6 rows long (stocking stitch)
1. With ndl 1 k8 (along the 'working' edge of the rectangle),
2. with ndl 2 pickup 4 sts along side of rectangle (ends of the six rows) and 4 more sts from other end (halfway across the cast on edge), on 3rd ndl pick up 4 sts from other end (other half of the cast on edge) and 4 more sts from other side (other end of the 6 rows) - you'll have 8 + 8 + 8 = 24 stitches in total
3. Knit one round even
4Move first 2 sts from ndl 2 and last 2 sts from ndl 3 to your first ndl. You'll have 12 on first ndl and 6 on each of the other ndls (with the picked up sts)
5. On ndl 1 k1 m1 k10 m1 k1, on ndl 2 k1 m1 k5, on ndl 3 k5 m1 k1
6. Work one round even
7. On ndl 1 k1 m1 k12 m1 k1, on ndl 2 k1 m1 k6, on ndl 3 k6 m1 k1
8. Work one round even
9. Continue increasing in this manner til you have the number of sts you need for the foot of the sock
You could change the frequency of the increase rounds, the number of sts picked up, and / or the size of the rectangle if you like.
Knitting instructions
Knitting instructions, all you need to know about knitting. Instructions for knitting hat, instructions for knitting scarf, instructions for knitting socks and other...
May 05, 2008
From Barbara Breiter,
Getting Started
Before you begin, you'll need to go shopping. All you'll need is yarn and knitting needles. Visit a yarn shop, where there will be experts on staff to help you in your selection.
Yarn is available in many fibers and weights (from very thin to very thick). Select a worsted weight yarn (a medium weight) spun from wool. Wool is the most elastic fiber and very forgiving. You'll find it much easier to knit with than a fancy yarn with a lot of loops and eyelashes, which make it difficult to see what you're doing.
Needles are made from a variety of materials. What you select is a matter of personal preference. There is no right or wrong. Aluminum needles are heavy and slippery; some yarns "stick" on needles and you might find aluminum needles easier to knit with for these type of yarns. Bamboo needles are light and warm to the touch. Bamboo tends to grip the yarn so you'll be less likely to have problems with your stitches falling off the needles. They come in a variety of sizes that are used with various thicknesses of yarns. Select a size 8 US (5 MM, 6 UK) needle for practice.
Pick a time when you can be alone and concentrate. A chair with no arms (or very low arms) and a good light are essential.
Like many things in life, it takes practice. It will feel awkward at first, as if you were all thumbs. This is normal and something we all experience. Soon, it will become second nature and you won't need to think about each maneuver.
Holding The Yarn And Needles
There is no right or wrong way to hold the needles or the yarn as it flows from the ball. Find the way that is most comfortable for you. Remember it will feel awkward in the beginning, regardless of how you hold the yarn and needles.
We are going to learn what is called Continental Knitting, where the yarn is held in the left hand. You can use either the outside or the inside end of the ball of yarn. Using the inside end is generally best as this keeps the yarn from rolling around and getting away from you; if you use the outside end, contain it in a plastic bag, box, or other means. You can wrap the end of the yarn around your index finger or loop it around your fingers; this is what controls the yarn. Again, there is no right or wrong way.
You will hold one needle in your left hand. You begin by casting on (next step) stitches on to this needle. Later, when you knit or purl, you will work into the stitches on the left needle, transferring them to the right needle as you complete each stitch. When you knit all of the stitches on the left needle, the left needle will be empty and the right needle will be full. Transfer the right needle to your left hand and the empty needle to your right hand. You will be ready to begin the next row.
Knitting instructions
Getting Started
Before you begin, you'll need to go shopping. All you'll need is yarn and knitting needles. Visit a yarn shop, where there will be experts on staff to help you in your selection.
Yarn is available in many fibers and weights (from very thin to very thick). Select a worsted weight yarn (a medium weight) spun from wool. Wool is the most elastic fiber and very forgiving. You'll find it much easier to knit with than a fancy yarn with a lot of loops and eyelashes, which make it difficult to see what you're doing.
Needles are made from a variety of materials. What you select is a matter of personal preference. There is no right or wrong. Aluminum needles are heavy and slippery; some yarns "stick" on needles and you might find aluminum needles easier to knit with for these type of yarns. Bamboo needles are light and warm to the touch. Bamboo tends to grip the yarn so you'll be less likely to have problems with your stitches falling off the needles. They come in a variety of sizes that are used with various thicknesses of yarns. Select a size 8 US (5 MM, 6 UK) needle for practice.
Pick a time when you can be alone and concentrate. A chair with no arms (or very low arms) and a good light are essential.
Like many things in life, it takes practice. It will feel awkward at first, as if you were all thumbs. This is normal and something we all experience. Soon, it will become second nature and you won't need to think about each maneuver.
Holding The Yarn And Needles
There is no right or wrong way to hold the needles or the yarn as it flows from the ball. Find the way that is most comfortable for you. Remember it will feel awkward in the beginning, regardless of how you hold the yarn and needles.
We are going to learn what is called Continental Knitting, where the yarn is held in the left hand. You can use either the outside or the inside end of the ball of yarn. Using the inside end is generally best as this keeps the yarn from rolling around and getting away from you; if you use the outside end, contain it in a plastic bag, box, or other means. You can wrap the end of the yarn around your index finger or loop it around your fingers; this is what controls the yarn. Again, there is no right or wrong way.
You will hold one needle in your left hand. You begin by casting on (next step) stitches on to this needle. Later, when you knit or purl, you will work into the stitches on the left needle, transferring them to the right needle as you complete each stitch. When you knit all of the stitches on the left needle, the left needle will be empty and the right needle will be full. Transfer the right needle to your left hand and the empty needle to your right hand. You will be ready to begin the next row.
Knitting instructions
March 31, 2008
So you've decided you'd like to learn to knit? Those of us who enjoy the art of knitting find it soothing and relaxing to the body and spirit. But learning how to knit takes some effort. How should one go about it?
There are several methods to choose from. I learned by taking books out from the library and following the illustrations. It felt awkward at first, but soon I was knitting and purling without even looking. You might also choose to take lessons from someone; seek out your local yarn shop. If they don't offer classes, they can point you in the direction of someone who does. There are also a wide selection of videos available to help you on your journey as well as lessons on the net.
There are two different methods of making stitches: Continental and American. Which method you choose doesn't matter; the stitches are exactly the same. Experiment and find which you are most comfortable with.
I would suggest using wool for your lessons and medium sized needles--about a size 7 works well. Wool is forgiving and "bounces back", making it easier for you to get an even tension. Larger or smaller needles can be especially awkward to beginners to work with.
Sit in a comfortable chair, one in which the arms are not too high so as to interfere with the needles as you work. Have good lighting available. Most of all RELAX--tensing up with only take away from the experience and knitting will become a chore instead of a soothing way to spend some time.
Knitting instructions
There are several methods to choose from. I learned by taking books out from the library and following the illustrations. It felt awkward at first, but soon I was knitting and purling without even looking. You might also choose to take lessons from someone; seek out your local yarn shop. If they don't offer classes, they can point you in the direction of someone who does. There are also a wide selection of videos available to help you on your journey as well as lessons on the net.
There are two different methods of making stitches: Continental and American. Which method you choose doesn't matter; the stitches are exactly the same. Experiment and find which you are most comfortable with.
I would suggest using wool for your lessons and medium sized needles--about a size 7 works well. Wool is forgiving and "bounces back", making it easier for you to get an even tension. Larger or smaller needles can be especially awkward to beginners to work with.
Sit in a comfortable chair, one in which the arms are not too high so as to interfere with the needles as you work. Have good lighting available. Most of all RELAX--tensing up with only take away from the experience and knitting will become a chore instead of a soothing way to spend some time.
Knitting instructions
March 26, 2008
Make One (M1)
There are several versions of this method, each resulting in a different look. However, they are all referred to as Make One. This is the standard version of what is commonly called Make One.
Insert right needle from front to back into the horizontal bar that is between the two stitches on the row below.
Place it on the left needle.
Knit into the back of this extra stitch.
This method creates a small hole.
If you knit into the front of the extra stitch instead of the back, a hole will not be made. This increase slants to the right.
There is also a third way to M1. Insert right needle from back to front into the horizontal bar that is between the two stitches on the row below, thus twisting the stitch. Place it on the left needle and knit into the front of the extra stitch. This increase also does not produce a hole and slants to the left.
Knit Into The Stitch Below
This increase is almost invisible.
Insert right needle into the stitch below the next stitch on the left hand needle.
Knit or purl this stitch as called for in the pattern.
Be sure to knit or purl into the stitch below, not into the horizontal bar between the two stitches.
Do not use this increase more than once every four rows. Your work will not lie flat.
Knit Into The Front And Back Of Same Stitch
This is sometimes also called a bar increase, as it results in a little horizontal bar on the fabric.
Knit the next stitch as you normally would but do not remove it from the left needle.
Insert the right needle into the back of the same stitch on the left needle. Wrap the yarn around the needle and pull it through; in other words, knit into the back of this same stitch.
Remove the stitch from the left needle.
You can also purl into the front and back of the same stitch if appropriate to the pattern. Sometimes instructions will call for you to knit into the front and purl into the back of the same stitch. The principle is the same.
YO (yarn over)
YO (yarn over) is an increase that results in a little hole or eyelet being formed.
Bring yarn over (away from you) and then under the right hand needle so that it is looped around the needle. Purl or knit the next stitch as called for in the pattern, bring the yarn that it is looped around the needle through the stitch.
YRN (yarn round needle), YFRN (yarn forward and round needle), YON (yarn over needle) or YFON (yarn forward and over needle) all basically mean YO. Sometimes these different names are used to differentiate between YOs that occur between two knit stitches or between a knit and a purl stitch.
It is easy to drop this extra stitch on the next row; be sure to knit or purl it as required by the pattern.
Barbara Breiter
There are several versions of this method, each resulting in a different look. However, they are all referred to as Make One. This is the standard version of what is commonly called Make One.
Insert right needle from front to back into the horizontal bar that is between the two stitches on the row below.
Place it on the left needle.
Knit into the back of this extra stitch.
This method creates a small hole.
If you knit into the front of the extra stitch instead of the back, a hole will not be made. This increase slants to the right.
There is also a third way to M1. Insert right needle from back to front into the horizontal bar that is between the two stitches on the row below, thus twisting the stitch. Place it on the left needle and knit into the front of the extra stitch. This increase also does not produce a hole and slants to the left.
Knit Into The Stitch Below
This increase is almost invisible.
Insert right needle into the stitch below the next stitch on the left hand needle.
Knit or purl this stitch as called for in the pattern.
Be sure to knit or purl into the stitch below, not into the horizontal bar between the two stitches.
Do not use this increase more than once every four rows. Your work will not lie flat.
Knit Into The Front And Back Of Same Stitch
This is sometimes also called a bar increase, as it results in a little horizontal bar on the fabric.
Knit the next stitch as you normally would but do not remove it from the left needle.
Insert the right needle into the back of the same stitch on the left needle. Wrap the yarn around the needle and pull it through; in other words, knit into the back of this same stitch.
Remove the stitch from the left needle.
You can also purl into the front and back of the same stitch if appropriate to the pattern. Sometimes instructions will call for you to knit into the front and purl into the back of the same stitch. The principle is the same.
YO (yarn over)
YO (yarn over) is an increase that results in a little hole or eyelet being formed.
Bring yarn over (away from you) and then under the right hand needle so that it is looped around the needle. Purl or knit the next stitch as called for in the pattern, bring the yarn that it is looped around the needle through the stitch.
YRN (yarn round needle), YFRN (yarn forward and round needle), YON (yarn over needle) or YFON (yarn forward and over needle) all basically mean YO. Sometimes these different names are used to differentiate between YOs that occur between two knit stitches or between a knit and a purl stitch.
It is easy to drop this extra stitch on the next row; be sure to knit or purl it as required by the pattern.
Barbara Breiter
March 25, 2008
If you've only knit with wool, the first time you pick up a skein of cotton and start to knit you may feel like you've begun to learn a new art form. Indeed you have, for knitting with cotton is a unique experience.
Cotton doesn't have near the resiliency that wool does; that is, there is no stretch or "give" to the fiber. You may feel like you're struggling with keeping an even tension. That's because the fiber is unforgiving, and a stitch made loosely stays that way. Against all contrary advice from knitting books, I find myself tugging after each stitch in order to tighten it up. I've come to firmly believe in this method and think that the experts who advised to never pull or tug on the yarn must have been knitting with wool.
Having knit probably 100 cotton sweaters, I don't care how tightly you knit the ribbing...after a few wearings, it will start to stretch out. I've tried about every ribbing in the book, and it always stretches. If it's a long, tunic style sweater I've never minded that. However, a sweater that comes to the hips just looks poorly made if the ribbing doesn't stay tight. Elastic thread has been a life saver for these stretched out sweaters and it comes in a rainbow of colors to match about any yarn. Any method where you weave it in and out of the ribbing for about three rows works fine. Beware of pulling too tight on the elastic though or you'll end up with ribbing half the size of the sweater; a slight tug is all that's needed to pull in the ribbing.
Cotton also takes dye very well which is great for bright, vibrant colors. However, it also bleeds profusely. Beware of mixing colors within a sweater. White, cream or yellow will easily pick up the black, blue or green upon washing. Try to stick with colors that are of the same hue and you'll be fine.
Knitting instructions for all
Cotton doesn't have near the resiliency that wool does; that is, there is no stretch or "give" to the fiber. You may feel like you're struggling with keeping an even tension. That's because the fiber is unforgiving, and a stitch made loosely stays that way. Against all contrary advice from knitting books, I find myself tugging after each stitch in order to tighten it up. I've come to firmly believe in this method and think that the experts who advised to never pull or tug on the yarn must have been knitting with wool.
Having knit probably 100 cotton sweaters, I don't care how tightly you knit the ribbing...after a few wearings, it will start to stretch out. I've tried about every ribbing in the book, and it always stretches. If it's a long, tunic style sweater I've never minded that. However, a sweater that comes to the hips just looks poorly made if the ribbing doesn't stay tight. Elastic thread has been a life saver for these stretched out sweaters and it comes in a rainbow of colors to match about any yarn. Any method where you weave it in and out of the ribbing for about three rows works fine. Beware of pulling too tight on the elastic though or you'll end up with ribbing half the size of the sweater; a slight tug is all that's needed to pull in the ribbing.
Cotton also takes dye very well which is great for bright, vibrant colors. However, it also bleeds profusely. Beware of mixing colors within a sweater. White, cream or yellow will easily pick up the black, blue or green upon washing. Try to stick with colors that are of the same hue and you'll be fine.
Barbara Breiter
Knitting instructions for all
March 24, 2008
I admit it: I'm a yarn snob. I make no bones about it; I don't like acrylic yarn and I never will. For all of you acrylic lovers out there, please remember this is only my opinion and flaming isn't nice.
Acrylic is cheap and it looks it. I don't care how many "wonder fiber" brands are out there. It doesn't look like wool, it doesn't look like cotton, it doesn't look like mohair. It just looks cheap. Of course, the inexpensive price is one of this fiber's positives.
It doesn't breathe. It won't keep you warm, it won't keep you cool. It won't absorb your sweat or water if you get caught in the rain. No advantages here.
It pills...you know, those fuzzy little fur balls that appear all over. I'm sure someone will tell me that "xyz" brand has never pilled and maybe that's true. Every experience I've had tells me otherwise. If it doesn't pill, that's not an advantage to the fiber; for a yarn to NOT pill is expected. At least that's my expectation.
Acrylic is not elastic. It doesn't give when you knit with it. Ok, so cotton and silk aren't elastic either. But at least the advantages of those fibers outweigh the disadvantage of no elasticity.
Just like I admitted to being a yarn snob, I'll also admit that acrylic has a big advantage. It's very "wash and wear." Throw it in the washer, throw it in the dryer. This makes it an ideal yarn for baby things and afghans. No person in their right mind would want a dry clean only baby sweater.
by Barbara Breiter
Knitting instructions
Acrylic is cheap and it looks it. I don't care how many "wonder fiber" brands are out there. It doesn't look like wool, it doesn't look like cotton, it doesn't look like mohair. It just looks cheap. Of course, the inexpensive price is one of this fiber's positives.
It doesn't breathe. It won't keep you warm, it won't keep you cool. It won't absorb your sweat or water if you get caught in the rain. No advantages here.
It pills...you know, those fuzzy little fur balls that appear all over. I'm sure someone will tell me that "xyz" brand has never pilled and maybe that's true. Every experience I've had tells me otherwise. If it doesn't pill, that's not an advantage to the fiber; for a yarn to NOT pill is expected. At least that's my expectation.
Acrylic is not elastic. It doesn't give when you knit with it. Ok, so cotton and silk aren't elastic either. But at least the advantages of those fibers outweigh the disadvantage of no elasticity.
Just like I admitted to being a yarn snob, I'll also admit that acrylic has a big advantage. It's very "wash and wear." Throw it in the washer, throw it in the dryer. This makes it an ideal yarn for baby things and afghans. No person in their right mind would want a dry clean only baby sweater.
by Barbara Breiter
Knitting instructions
March 18, 2008
Should I use circular needles instead of straight needles? Actually, it's a personal preference. Sue prefers the circular needles for several reasons: they're more versatile, you can use them to knit both in the round or back and forth like a straight needle, and they're more comfortable to use. They also have less of a tendency to tire out your shoulders as your fabric grows.
What does "double knitting" mean? Double Knitting is actually a weight of yarn like worsted, fingering or sport. It knits at a gauge of 5.5 stitches to the inch. It doesn't mean that you're required to knit with two strands doubled together at the same time.
If I use circular needles do I have to knit in round? Absolutely not. Knit back and forth by switching needles from one hand to another after each row just as you would use a straight needle.
Is it okay to add a new ball of yarn in the middle of a row? It's best not to make a practice of this, because there's always a possibility that your knot will come undone, or the knot will want to come to the front of the garment. Also, the way Murphy's Law works, that knot will be right on the tip of your breast! Just don't do it.
Should I decrease and increase at the beginning and end of the row? Try not to make a practice of this, either. Always try to knit the first stitch and then be sure you decrease or increase before the last stitch on the row.
What is gauge? Only the most important thing there is to know about knitting! Gauge is the measurement of the stitches required for a particular pattern.
For instance:
Each pattern will require that you knit a certain number of stitches with a particular yarn on a specified needle. It's not necessary to always use the yarn or the needles the pattern calls for, but it is required that you get the correct number of stitches per inch for your pattern to be the right size/length/etc.
Knitting instructions for all
What does "double knitting" mean? Double Knitting is actually a weight of yarn like worsted, fingering or sport. It knits at a gauge of 5.5 stitches to the inch. It doesn't mean that you're required to knit with two strands doubled together at the same time.
If I use circular needles do I have to knit in round? Absolutely not. Knit back and forth by switching needles from one hand to another after each row just as you would use a straight needle.
Is it okay to add a new ball of yarn in the middle of a row? It's best not to make a practice of this, because there's always a possibility that your knot will come undone, or the knot will want to come to the front of the garment. Also, the way Murphy's Law works, that knot will be right on the tip of your breast! Just don't do it.
Should I decrease and increase at the beginning and end of the row? Try not to make a practice of this, either. Always try to knit the first stitch and then be sure you decrease or increase before the last stitch on the row.
What is gauge? Only the most important thing there is to know about knitting! Gauge is the measurement of the stitches required for a particular pattern.
For instance:
Each pattern will require that you knit a certain number of stitches with a particular yarn on a specified needle. It's not necessary to always use the yarn or the needles the pattern calls for, but it is required that you get the correct number of stitches per inch for your pattern to be the right size/length/etc.
Knitting instructions for all