Learning To KnitSo you've decided you'd like to learn to knit? Those of us who enjoy the art of knitting find it soothing and relaxing to the body and spirit. But learning how to knit takes some effort. How should one go about it?
There are several methods to choose from. I learned by taking books out from the library and following the illustrations. It felt awkward at first, but soon I was knitting and purling without even looking. You might also choose to take lessons from someone; seek out your local yarn shop. If they don't offer classes, they can point you in the direction of someone who does. There are also a wide selection of videos available to help you on your journey as well as lessons on the net.
There are two different methods of making stitches: Continental and American. Which method you choose doesn't matter; the stitches are exactly the same. Experiment and find which you are most comfortable with.
I would suggest using wool for your lessons and medium sized needles--about a size 7 works well. Wool is forgiving and "bounces back", making it easier for you to get an even tension. Larger or smaller needles can be especially awkward to beginners to work with.
Sit in a comfortable chair, one in which the arms are not too high so as to interfere with the needles as you work. Have good lighting available. Most of all RELAX--tensing up with only take away from the experience and knitting will become a chore instead of a soothing way to spend some time.
Knitting instructions
Knitting instructions
Knitting instructions, all you need to know about knitting. Instructions for knitting hat, instructions for knitting scarf, instructions for knitting socks and other...
March 31, 2008
March 26, 2008
Make One (M1)
There are several versions of this method, each resulting in a different look. However, they are all referred to as Make One. This is the standard version of what is commonly called Make One.
Insert right needle from front to back into the horizontal bar that is between the two stitches on the row below.
Place it on the left needle.
Knit into the back of this extra stitch.
This method creates a small hole.
If you knit into the front of the extra stitch instead of the back, a hole will not be made. This increase slants to the right.
There is also a third way to M1. Insert right needle from back to front into the horizontal bar that is between the two stitches on the row below, thus twisting the stitch. Place it on the left needle and knit into the front of the extra stitch. This increase also does not produce a hole and slants to the left.
Knit Into The Stitch Below
This increase is almost invisible.
Insert right needle into the stitch below the next stitch on the left hand needle.
Knit or purl this stitch as called for in the pattern.
Be sure to knit or purl into the stitch below, not into the horizontal bar between the two stitches.
Do not use this increase more than once every four rows. Your work will not lie flat.
Knit Into The Front And Back Of Same Stitch
This is sometimes also called a bar increase, as it results in a little horizontal bar on the fabric.
Knit the next stitch as you normally would but do not remove it from the left needle.
Insert the right needle into the back of the same stitch on the left needle. Wrap the yarn around the needle and pull it through; in other words, knit into the back of this same stitch.
Remove the stitch from the left needle.
You can also purl into the front and back of the same stitch if appropriate to the pattern. Sometimes instructions will call for you to knit into the front and purl into the back of the same stitch. The principle is the same.
YO (yarn over)
YO (yarn over) is an increase that results in a little hole or eyelet being formed.
Bring yarn over (away from you) and then under the right hand needle so that it is looped around the needle. Purl or knit the next stitch as called for in the pattern, bring the yarn that it is looped around the needle through the stitch.
YRN (yarn round needle), YFRN (yarn forward and round needle), YON (yarn over needle) or YFON (yarn forward and over needle) all basically mean YO. Sometimes these different names are used to differentiate between YOs that occur between two knit stitches or between a knit and a purl stitch.
It is easy to drop this extra stitch on the next row; be sure to knit or purl it as required by the pattern.
Barbara Breiter
There are several versions of this method, each resulting in a different look. However, they are all referred to as Make One. This is the standard version of what is commonly called Make One.
Insert right needle from front to back into the horizontal bar that is between the two stitches on the row below.
Place it on the left needle.
Knit into the back of this extra stitch.
This method creates a small hole.
If you knit into the front of the extra stitch instead of the back, a hole will not be made. This increase slants to the right.
There is also a third way to M1. Insert right needle from back to front into the horizontal bar that is between the two stitches on the row below, thus twisting the stitch. Place it on the left needle and knit into the front of the extra stitch. This increase also does not produce a hole and slants to the left.
Knit Into The Stitch Below
This increase is almost invisible.
Insert right needle into the stitch below the next stitch on the left hand needle.
Knit or purl this stitch as called for in the pattern.
Be sure to knit or purl into the stitch below, not into the horizontal bar between the two stitches.
Do not use this increase more than once every four rows. Your work will not lie flat.
Knit Into The Front And Back Of Same Stitch
This is sometimes also called a bar increase, as it results in a little horizontal bar on the fabric.
Knit the next stitch as you normally would but do not remove it from the left needle.
Insert the right needle into the back of the same stitch on the left needle. Wrap the yarn around the needle and pull it through; in other words, knit into the back of this same stitch.
Remove the stitch from the left needle.
You can also purl into the front and back of the same stitch if appropriate to the pattern. Sometimes instructions will call for you to knit into the front and purl into the back of the same stitch. The principle is the same.
YO (yarn over)
YO (yarn over) is an increase that results in a little hole or eyelet being formed.
Bring yarn over (away from you) and then under the right hand needle so that it is looped around the needle. Purl or knit the next stitch as called for in the pattern, bring the yarn that it is looped around the needle through the stitch.
YRN (yarn round needle), YFRN (yarn forward and round needle), YON (yarn over needle) or YFON (yarn forward and over needle) all basically mean YO. Sometimes these different names are used to differentiate between YOs that occur between two knit stitches or between a knit and a purl stitch.
It is easy to drop this extra stitch on the next row; be sure to knit or purl it as required by the pattern.
Barbara Breiter
March 25, 2008
If you've only knit with wool, the first time you pick up a skein of cotton and start to knit you may feel like you've begun to learn a new art form. Indeed you have, for knitting with cotton is a unique experience.
Cotton doesn't have near the resiliency that wool does; that is, there is no stretch or "give" to the fiber. You may feel like you're struggling with keeping an even tension. That's because the fiber is unforgiving, and a stitch made loosely stays that way. Against all contrary advice from knitting books, I find myself tugging after each stitch in order to tighten it up. I've come to firmly believe in this method and think that the experts who advised to never pull or tug on the yarn must have been knitting with wool.
Having knit probably 100 cotton sweaters, I don't care how tightly you knit the ribbing...after a few wearings, it will start to stretch out. I've tried about every ribbing in the book, and it always stretches. If it's a long, tunic style sweater I've never minded that. However, a sweater that comes to the hips just looks poorly made if the ribbing doesn't stay tight. Elastic thread has been a life saver for these stretched out sweaters and it comes in a rainbow of colors to match about any yarn. Any method where you weave it in and out of the ribbing for about three rows works fine. Beware of pulling too tight on the elastic though or you'll end up with ribbing half the size of the sweater; a slight tug is all that's needed to pull in the ribbing.
Cotton also takes dye very well which is great for bright, vibrant colors. However, it also bleeds profusely. Beware of mixing colors within a sweater. White, cream or yellow will easily pick up the black, blue or green upon washing. Try to stick with colors that are of the same hue and you'll be fine.
Knitting instructions for all
Cotton doesn't have near the resiliency that wool does; that is, there is no stretch or "give" to the fiber. You may feel like you're struggling with keeping an even tension. That's because the fiber is unforgiving, and a stitch made loosely stays that way. Against all contrary advice from knitting books, I find myself tugging after each stitch in order to tighten it up. I've come to firmly believe in this method and think that the experts who advised to never pull or tug on the yarn must have been knitting with wool.
Having knit probably 100 cotton sweaters, I don't care how tightly you knit the ribbing...after a few wearings, it will start to stretch out. I've tried about every ribbing in the book, and it always stretches. If it's a long, tunic style sweater I've never minded that. However, a sweater that comes to the hips just looks poorly made if the ribbing doesn't stay tight. Elastic thread has been a life saver for these stretched out sweaters and it comes in a rainbow of colors to match about any yarn. Any method where you weave it in and out of the ribbing for about three rows works fine. Beware of pulling too tight on the elastic though or you'll end up with ribbing half the size of the sweater; a slight tug is all that's needed to pull in the ribbing.
Cotton also takes dye very well which is great for bright, vibrant colors. However, it also bleeds profusely. Beware of mixing colors within a sweater. White, cream or yellow will easily pick up the black, blue or green upon washing. Try to stick with colors that are of the same hue and you'll be fine.
Barbara Breiter
Knitting instructions for all
March 24, 2008
I admit it: I'm a yarn snob. I make no bones about it; I don't like acrylic yarn and I never will. For all of you acrylic lovers out there, please remember this is only my opinion and flaming isn't nice.
Acrylic is cheap and it looks it. I don't care how many "wonder fiber" brands are out there. It doesn't look like wool, it doesn't look like cotton, it doesn't look like mohair. It just looks cheap. Of course, the inexpensive price is one of this fiber's positives.
It doesn't breathe. It won't keep you warm, it won't keep you cool. It won't absorb your sweat or water if you get caught in the rain. No advantages here.
It pills...you know, those fuzzy little fur balls that appear all over. I'm sure someone will tell me that "xyz" brand has never pilled and maybe that's true. Every experience I've had tells me otherwise. If it doesn't pill, that's not an advantage to the fiber; for a yarn to NOT pill is expected. At least that's my expectation.
Acrylic is not elastic. It doesn't give when you knit with it. Ok, so cotton and silk aren't elastic either. But at least the advantages of those fibers outweigh the disadvantage of no elasticity.
Just like I admitted to being a yarn snob, I'll also admit that acrylic has a big advantage. It's very "wash and wear." Throw it in the washer, throw it in the dryer. This makes it an ideal yarn for baby things and afghans. No person in their right mind would want a dry clean only baby sweater.
by Barbara Breiter
Knitting instructions
Acrylic is cheap and it looks it. I don't care how many "wonder fiber" brands are out there. It doesn't look like wool, it doesn't look like cotton, it doesn't look like mohair. It just looks cheap. Of course, the inexpensive price is one of this fiber's positives.
It doesn't breathe. It won't keep you warm, it won't keep you cool. It won't absorb your sweat or water if you get caught in the rain. No advantages here.
It pills...you know, those fuzzy little fur balls that appear all over. I'm sure someone will tell me that "xyz" brand has never pilled and maybe that's true. Every experience I've had tells me otherwise. If it doesn't pill, that's not an advantage to the fiber; for a yarn to NOT pill is expected. At least that's my expectation.
Acrylic is not elastic. It doesn't give when you knit with it. Ok, so cotton and silk aren't elastic either. But at least the advantages of those fibers outweigh the disadvantage of no elasticity.
Just like I admitted to being a yarn snob, I'll also admit that acrylic has a big advantage. It's very "wash and wear." Throw it in the washer, throw it in the dryer. This makes it an ideal yarn for baby things and afghans. No person in their right mind would want a dry clean only baby sweater.
by Barbara Breiter
Knitting instructions
March 18, 2008
Should I use circular needles instead of straight needles? Actually, it's a personal preference. Sue prefers the circular needles for several reasons: they're more versatile, you can use them to knit both in the round or back and forth like a straight needle, and they're more comfortable to use. They also have less of a tendency to tire out your shoulders as your fabric grows.
What does "double knitting" mean? Double Knitting is actually a weight of yarn like worsted, fingering or sport. It knits at a gauge of 5.5 stitches to the inch. It doesn't mean that you're required to knit with two strands doubled together at the same time.
If I use circular needles do I have to knit in round? Absolutely not. Knit back and forth by switching needles from one hand to another after each row just as you would use a straight needle.
Is it okay to add a new ball of yarn in the middle of a row? It's best not to make a practice of this, because there's always a possibility that your knot will come undone, or the knot will want to come to the front of the garment. Also, the way Murphy's Law works, that knot will be right on the tip of your breast! Just don't do it.
Should I decrease and increase at the beginning and end of the row? Try not to make a practice of this, either. Always try to knit the first stitch and then be sure you decrease or increase before the last stitch on the row.
What is gauge? Only the most important thing there is to know about knitting! Gauge is the measurement of the stitches required for a particular pattern.
For instance:
Each pattern will require that you knit a certain number of stitches with a particular yarn on a specified needle. It's not necessary to always use the yarn or the needles the pattern calls for, but it is required that you get the correct number of stitches per inch for your pattern to be the right size/length/etc.
Knitting instructions for all
What does "double knitting" mean? Double Knitting is actually a weight of yarn like worsted, fingering or sport. It knits at a gauge of 5.5 stitches to the inch. It doesn't mean that you're required to knit with two strands doubled together at the same time.
If I use circular needles do I have to knit in round? Absolutely not. Knit back and forth by switching needles from one hand to another after each row just as you would use a straight needle.
Is it okay to add a new ball of yarn in the middle of a row? It's best not to make a practice of this, because there's always a possibility that your knot will come undone, or the knot will want to come to the front of the garment. Also, the way Murphy's Law works, that knot will be right on the tip of your breast! Just don't do it.
Should I decrease and increase at the beginning and end of the row? Try not to make a practice of this, either. Always try to knit the first stitch and then be sure you decrease or increase before the last stitch on the row.
What is gauge? Only the most important thing there is to know about knitting! Gauge is the measurement of the stitches required for a particular pattern.
For instance:
Each pattern will require that you knit a certain number of stitches with a particular yarn on a specified needle. It's not necessary to always use the yarn or the needles the pattern calls for, but it is required that you get the correct number of stitches per inch for your pattern to be the right size/length/etc.
Knitting instructions for all
March 06, 2008
As we all know, we don't knit to create a sweater cheaper than we can buy one; knitting one sweater can cost a small fortune! Many thanks to all the readers who have sent in these wonderful ideas on how to knit more for less money.
Let me know if you have any cheap knitting tips and I'll list them in a future article.
My grandmother used to tell me the best way to get yarn was to shop at thrift stores for nice sweaters and unravel them -- some of my finer yarns were procured this way!
Another hold over from our Scandinavian knitting traditions was the knit swap: Once a year, the women of a town who knit would get together, bring coffee, pastries, and one unfinished article with the yarn to finish it wrapped in a box or bag. After talking and eating, you you go through what New Englanders call a "yankee swap": each person draws a number, and the person with number one gets to pick the first box of goodies from the "gift table". Each subsequent person in line would get to pick a box of yarn and goodies from the gift table and either keep it or swap with the other people who have already picked a prize. It's great fun and, although you can get some hideous stuff (I've got Day-Glo green and orange yarn for socks still sitting in my knitting bag from three years ago!), you can also add to your stash. I picked up some great alpaca mitten yarn this past year at the swap, and I never feel guilty then about leaving an unfinished project around the house!
For patterns check the book section of used book stores, thrift stores and rummage sales. Also check the withdrawn books at the library. And of course look for the patterns on the knitting.about.com site! Tons of great patterns of all types.
Check eBay for needles. I've bought and sold needles there at very reasonable prices. Some pattern books are also a good deal. Look under "Everything Else: Crafts: Knitting: General" and go to the "Ending Today" auctions. There you can get a pretty good idea of what something will sell for and can bid on otherwise unbid items.
For yarn, I've had good luck at charity resale stores such as Goodwill and the Salvation Army. They often have bagged assortments of yarn for under $5. I use the colors that don't suit me for charity knitting. I've also found knitting pattern books and needles there at great prices. You can occasionally find wool sweaters that were hand knit in the round. These allow you to rip out the yarn in longer continuous pieces than if the sweater has been cut and sewn.
Knit in public. I was given two large trash bags full of yarn and needles by my son's swimming teacher after she saw me knitting during the lessons.
I swap needles with friends; if a sweater calls for a special needle size that I do not have, I call on my knitting friends and usually find what I need and vice-versa.
Yard sales and estate sales are great. I have made beautiful sweaters from patterns in knitting books by changing the yarn. I think what makes a sweater expensive is the yarns. You can often substitute a totally different yarn and have a fabulous sweater for 1/4 of the cost. I buy yarn at Wal-mart, K-mart and stores which are going out of business. I also recycle yarn from sweaters if I find I do not wear them anymore.
You can get just about any pattern for free on the web. My problem with patterns found in thrift shops they are most of the time outdated in their style.
Spin your own designer yarns. I'm learning how to spin just so I can make my own designer yarns. In fact, I just got the latest Knit N'Style and the kit for a jacket in that issue is $130. I have just ordered the fleece for $60 and the dyes for $10 and KNOW I can make that jacket every bit as gorgeous as the one in the magazine.
I knit dishcloths from cotton and with the leftovers I knit what my daughter calls face scrubbers. I call them coasters. They are miniature versions of the dishcloths done on 4.5mm needles and are 25 stitches at the widest point of the the diamond. These are always welcomed by friends and relatives (non-knitters). They look forward to birthdays and Christmas when they know they will be receiving a gift bag stuffed with these cloths and leftovers instead of tissue papers. I often throw in small designer soaps found through out the year on sale.
I know of a yarn store nearby that bags yarn and then sells it for $5-$15. The trick is not buying too much. I try to find projects that are challenging so that they take longer and stretch out the yarn. I also take whatever anyone wants to give me.
The very first thing I ever learned to make on a knitting machine was slippers. They do not have a seam on the bottom or a left or right to them so they can be made quickly, one after the other. I keep a supply of ready to stitch slippers for traveling and quick gifts. I have also sold and/or given them to people who have new houses or new carpeting. I have also taken them to local real estate offices and sold them for model home tours and convinced several that they make good complimentary gifts to people who purchase homes through them. I make many things on my knitting machine but when I need quick cash these slippers never fail me!
Knitting instructions for all
Let me know if you have any cheap knitting tips and I'll list them in a future article.
- Kory L. Stamper
My grandmother used to tell me the best way to get yarn was to shop at thrift stores for nice sweaters and unravel them -- some of my finer yarns were procured this way!
Another hold over from our Scandinavian knitting traditions was the knit swap: Once a year, the women of a town who knit would get together, bring coffee, pastries, and one unfinished article with the yarn to finish it wrapped in a box or bag. After talking and eating, you you go through what New Englanders call a "yankee swap": each person draws a number, and the person with number one gets to pick the first box of goodies from the "gift table". Each subsequent person in line would get to pick a box of yarn and goodies from the gift table and either keep it or swap with the other people who have already picked a prize. It's great fun and, although you can get some hideous stuff (I've got Day-Glo green and orange yarn for socks still sitting in my knitting bag from three years ago!), you can also add to your stash. I picked up some great alpaca mitten yarn this past year at the swap, and I never feel guilty then about leaving an unfinished project around the house!
- Molly Bettridge
For patterns check the book section of used book stores, thrift stores and rummage sales. Also check the withdrawn books at the library. And of course look for the patterns on the knitting.about.com site! Tons of great patterns of all types.
Check eBay for needles. I've bought and sold needles there at very reasonable prices. Some pattern books are also a good deal. Look under "Everything Else: Crafts: Knitting: General" and go to the "Ending Today" auctions. There you can get a pretty good idea of what something will sell for and can bid on otherwise unbid items.
For yarn, I've had good luck at charity resale stores such as Goodwill and the Salvation Army. They often have bagged assortments of yarn for under $5. I use the colors that don't suit me for charity knitting. I've also found knitting pattern books and needles there at great prices. You can occasionally find wool sweaters that were hand knit in the round. These allow you to rip out the yarn in longer continuous pieces than if the sweater has been cut and sewn.
Knit in public. I was given two large trash bags full of yarn and needles by my son's swimming teacher after she saw me knitting during the lessons.
- Sylvia I. Van Etten
I swap needles with friends; if a sweater calls for a special needle size that I do not have, I call on my knitting friends and usually find what I need and vice-versa.
Yard sales and estate sales are great. I have made beautiful sweaters from patterns in knitting books by changing the yarn. I think what makes a sweater expensive is the yarns. You can often substitute a totally different yarn and have a fabulous sweater for 1/4 of the cost. I buy yarn at Wal-mart, K-mart and stores which are going out of business. I also recycle yarn from sweaters if I find I do not wear them anymore.
You can get just about any pattern for free on the web. My problem with patterns found in thrift shops they are most of the time outdated in their style.
- Roz Porter
Spin your own designer yarns. I'm learning how to spin just so I can make my own designer yarns. In fact, I just got the latest Knit N'Style and the kit for a jacket in that issue is $130. I have just ordered the fleece for $60 and the dyes for $10 and KNOW I can make that jacket every bit as gorgeous as the one in the magazine.
- Carole Mulholland
I knit dishcloths from cotton and with the leftovers I knit what my daughter calls face scrubbers. I call them coasters. They are miniature versions of the dishcloths done on 4.5mm needles and are 25 stitches at the widest point of the the diamond. These are always welcomed by friends and relatives (non-knitters). They look forward to birthdays and Christmas when they know they will be receiving a gift bag stuffed with these cloths and leftovers instead of tissue papers. I often throw in small designer soaps found through out the year on sale.
- Brenda Bonstein
I know of a yarn store nearby that bags yarn and then sells it for $5-$15. The trick is not buying too much. I try to find projects that are challenging so that they take longer and stretch out the yarn. I also take whatever anyone wants to give me.
- Jan Bowman
The very first thing I ever learned to make on a knitting machine was slippers. They do not have a seam on the bottom or a left or right to them so they can be made quickly, one after the other. I keep a supply of ready to stitch slippers for traveling and quick gifts. I have also sold and/or given them to people who have new houses or new carpeting. I have also taken them to local real estate offices and sold them for model home tours and convinced several that they make good complimentary gifts to people who purchase homes through them. I make many things on my knitting machine but when I need quick cash these slippers never fail me!
Knitting instructions for all
March 03, 2008
Barbara Breiter
Here are some tips 'n tricks of the knitting trade. Let me know your favorite tips or tricks and I'll list them in a future article (with proper credit where credit is due, of course).
Knitting instructions for new knitters
Here are some tips 'n tricks of the knitting trade. Let me know your favorite tips or tricks and I'll list them in a future article (with proper credit where credit is due, of course).
- From reader Crisa McCarty: I keep my patterns in the three-ring page covers (plastic envelope with opening at the top with three holes punched in edge). When I'm ready to work on a pattern, it's visible and not damaged by my teacup or dog drool. When I'm done, it goes back in the binder. Best of all the $12 package of nearly 100 (approximately...I haven't bought any in awhile) comes with tabs to adhere to the edges so you can categorize: children's, women's, tips, etc. I use Post-Its on the plastic to keep track of my rows, making hash marks as I go along. No permanent marks, no confusion as the Post-It can be repositioned where I leave off.
- From reader Patricia Smith: I have stopped using the straight knitting needle pairs when I knit. Instead, I use circular needles for all of my projects, even though I am not knitting in the round. The reason I have done this is because I always hated crawling around on the floor trying to retrieve my knitting needle if I have dropped it while turning my work around after finishing a row. Can you imagine how embarrassing it is while flying on an airplane and you keep dropping your needle? Not to mention the other people in your row get really ticked off after about the third time you say, "Excuse me, I must get up and get my needle again, so sorry." ;-) Plus, when working on an extremely large project, using the longest circular needle is easier to keep your work on than the longest straight needle.
- From a reader I've inadvertently lost the name of (sorry!): Put mohair in the freezer prior to unraveling a sweater or rows to correct an error; this prevents it from "hooking" on itself.
- Make a note of the row number where you begin binding off for armholes. The other half of the sweater will then match exactly.
- When knitting Aran sweaters, use stitch markers to keep the various patterns separated and thus, easier to follow.
- Keep track of the yardage used to complete sweaters of various gauges. Keep this information in your purse and you'll be prepared the next time you go to your favorite yarn store...you'll know about how many skeins you need.
- If only a few balls of yarn are available at a super sale, buy them anyway. You can always use them for stripes or an intarsia pattern.
- Use selvedge stitches so that patterns match up when pieces are sewn together. You'll get a much more professional look if the seams match.
- Don't pull too tight when sewing together pieces using the mattress stitch. If you do, the seam won't have an elasticity and will pucker.
- If designing your own Aran sweaters, try to use patterns with the same number of row repeats. This makes it much easier to keep track of the patterns as you knit.
Knitting instructions for new knitters
Here are some tips 'n tricks of the knitting trade. Let me know your favorite tips or tricks and I'll list them in a future article (with proper credit where credit is due, of course).
Barbara Breiter
Knitting instructions
- A very small tackle box makes a great container for holding knitting gadgets. They come with many compartments and open on two sides. Find them at your local K-Mart, Target or other store for under $10.
- Have a simple project going, such as a sweater with a fancy yarn in stockinette stitch, for traveling. No pattern repeats to worry about...just knit away.
- Copy and enlarge any project pattern or stitch pattern you are using. Makes it a lot easier to see and follow. This is especially true of charts.
- A lovely wicker hamper sits next to my knitting chair and holds needles, my tackle box of gadgets, yarn for the current project.
- The hamper doubles as a table on which I prop my directions/stitch patterns. I use a magnetized board on a stand that allows you to see the directions much easier than if they were lying flat.
- Make note of which row in the pattern you began binding off stitches for the armhole. Then when you knit the other side, you'll be sure to bind off on the exact same row...not just at about 14".
- Pry the plastic bottom off of a liter soda bottle. It's tough but keep at it. It makes a great yarn holder to use as you're knitting, keeping the yarn clean and tangle free.
Barbara Breiter
Knitting instructions
Labels: knitting