Caring For KnitsBarbara Breiter
After spending untold hours laboring over knitting a sweater, you'd like it to look as good after ten washings as the day you finished it. Here's how I care for my hand knits.
Filling the basin with tepid water, I use a teaspoon or so of shampoo to wash the sweater with. I've always thought that if shampoo was made to eradicate oils and yet be mild, it was the perfect product for washing sweaters. Let the sweater soak for fifteen minutes at least. I "agitate" the sweater with my hands for a bit.
Drain the water and press the sweater against the basin to extrude some excess dirty water. Rinse with more tepid water as many times as it takes until the water is clear. I add a small amount of liquid softener as this point, particularly with cottons; without the softener, I find cotton stiffens up considerably after drying unless it's a fine Egyptian cotton.
Again press the sweater against the basin to extrude some excess water. Lay a towel out flat and place the sweater out on the towel. Roll the towel up with the sweater inside. This removes a great deal of water from the knit.
I always use a screen type sweater dryer, available from many mail order catalogues. I have never measured out the sweater, made cut outs of the sweater on butcher paper prior to washing, or any other such time consuming steps I've seen written about. Frankly, I've never had a problem with the sweater not returning to its original shape. After laying it on the screen, I just gently shape it and try to "push in" the ribbing, particularly with cottons. Cotton ribbing will eventually spread out and I've not thought of a way to avoid this; I always end up using elastic thread in a color to match the yarn and it works great.
Common sense will tell you to never hang a sweater, not even on padded hangers. To fold so that there are a minimum number of creases, I first lay the sweater flat. I then fold in the arms. Then, on the horizontal, fold the left third and the right third until they meet in the middle. Finally, fold in half vertically.
Knitting instructions
Knitting instructions
Knitting instructions, all you need to know about knitting. Instructions for knitting hat, instructions for knitting scarf, instructions for knitting socks and other...
February 22, 2008
by Barbara Breiter
Ahh, the excitement of starting a new project...but wait, the dreaded gauge swatch looms before you. You're so tempted to begin by just using the recommended needle size (what difference could a teeny half stitch per inch make anyway?). But don't skip this step; you WILL be sorry.
That teeny half stitch per inch ends up making a huge difference to the overall size of a sweater. For example, suppose you are knitting a size 40 sweater with a gauge of 4st=1". If you knit the entire sweater at a gauge of 4' st=1", you will in the end have produced a sweater that measures 35'" instead of 40"! Now will you check your gauge before you begin?
Knit the swatch in the pattern stitch that you plan to use. Some patterns pull in while others are loose and lacy. If you knit the swatch in stockinette (knit one row and purl the next), chances are the gauge will not be correct. Always knit your gauge swatch over the indicated pattern stitch.
I know you want to get through this, but don't skimp on the size of the swatch either. It must be big enough to give you a realistic measure of the gauge. Some pattern stitches won't begin to pull in or out until you've knit for a few inches. Aim for at least 4" x 4".
Surround the swatch with a few rows of seed stitch (knit or purl the opposite stitch of what you see facing you on odd number rows). Begin and end each row with four seed stitches as well. This stitch lies very flat and will help you measure accurately.
Please don't worry about the needle size you end up using. That's why you are making a swatch. If you could simply use the recommended needle size that came with the pattern, you wouldn't have to make a swatch! Some people knit loosely while others pull and tug; this can even vary from hour to hour with people so don't sweat the needle size!
If you are designing your own sweater, you can choose the gauge you like best and design the sweater around the gauge you have achieved. Are you aiming for a very tight, wind proof weave or a light and airy feel? The tighter weave may feel stiffer while the more loosely knit piece may feel softer. These factors should be taken into consideration when making your choice of gauge.
Finally, bind off the swatch and let it sit for some time. The yarn has been traumatized and needs awhile to relax and settle in. Use a pliable plastic or cloth tape measure and carefully measure the stitches and rows per inch. Measure in several different places. You can also calculate how large the total swatch should be and double check the gauge that way: If 20 stitches were cast on for the pattern and the gauge is 4"=1" the swatch should measure 5" (don't measure the seed stitch pattern on each end). If it's too large, try needles a size smaller; if it's too small, try again with larger needles.
There, all finished! That wasn't so bad. Now the sweater will fit and you won't have to give it to the kid next door.
Free knitting instructions
Ahh, the excitement of starting a new project...but wait, the dreaded gauge swatch looms before you. You're so tempted to begin by just using the recommended needle size (what difference could a teeny half stitch per inch make anyway?). But don't skip this step; you WILL be sorry.
That teeny half stitch per inch ends up making a huge difference to the overall size of a sweater. For example, suppose you are knitting a size 40 sweater with a gauge of 4st=1". If you knit the entire sweater at a gauge of 4' st=1", you will in the end have produced a sweater that measures 35'" instead of 40"! Now will you check your gauge before you begin?
Knit the swatch in the pattern stitch that you plan to use. Some patterns pull in while others are loose and lacy. If you knit the swatch in stockinette (knit one row and purl the next), chances are the gauge will not be correct. Always knit your gauge swatch over the indicated pattern stitch.
I know you want to get through this, but don't skimp on the size of the swatch either. It must be big enough to give you a realistic measure of the gauge. Some pattern stitches won't begin to pull in or out until you've knit for a few inches. Aim for at least 4" x 4".
Surround the swatch with a few rows of seed stitch (knit or purl the opposite stitch of what you see facing you on odd number rows). Begin and end each row with four seed stitches as well. This stitch lies very flat and will help you measure accurately.
Please don't worry about the needle size you end up using. That's why you are making a swatch. If you could simply use the recommended needle size that came with the pattern, you wouldn't have to make a swatch! Some people knit loosely while others pull and tug; this can even vary from hour to hour with people so don't sweat the needle size!
If you are designing your own sweater, you can choose the gauge you like best and design the sweater around the gauge you have achieved. Are you aiming for a very tight, wind proof weave or a light and airy feel? The tighter weave may feel stiffer while the more loosely knit piece may feel softer. These factors should be taken into consideration when making your choice of gauge.
Finally, bind off the swatch and let it sit for some time. The yarn has been traumatized and needs awhile to relax and settle in. Use a pliable plastic or cloth tape measure and carefully measure the stitches and rows per inch. Measure in several different places. You can also calculate how large the total swatch should be and double check the gauge that way: If 20 stitches were cast on for the pattern and the gauge is 4"=1" the swatch should measure 5" (don't measure the seed stitch pattern on each end). If it's too large, try needles a size smaller; if it's too small, try again with larger needles.
There, all finished! That wasn't so bad. Now the sweater will fit and you won't have to give it to the kid next door.
Free knitting instructions
February 17, 2008
by Barbara Breiter
If you are among the thousands of people learning to knit, chances are you have a lot of questions. Don't despair...and please don't feel "silly" or "stupid". Tons of beginning knitters have the same exact question! Here are the answers to Frequently Asked Questions by new knitters.
What is stockinette stitch?
When you knit one row and purl the next and continue alternating between knit and purl rows, one side of the fabric is smooth and the other side "bumpy". The smooth side is stockinette. It is sometimes called stocking stitch. It means the same thing.
What is reverse stockinette stitch?
The bumpy side of stockinette.
What is garter stitch?
When you knit every row, then you have made what is called garter stitch. It takes more rows to produce an inch of fabric in garter stitch than stockinette. Garter stitch lies flat.
My project knit in stockinette rolls in. Did I do something wrong?
You did nothing wrong. This is simply the nature of the fabric produced by stockinette. If you are knitting something that will be seamed, such as a sweater, it will be fine once you have sewn the pieces together. If you are knitting a piece that will not be seamed, such as an afghan or a scarf, then you don't want it to roll but rather it should lie flat. Try putting an easy seed stitch border around it and it will lie flat.
What is meant by right side?
This does not mean right vs. left. It means the right side of the fabric; that is, the side that will show on the outside.
How do I work both sides at once?
This is generally done when you are shaping the neck on the front of a sweater. To work both sides at once, you will need to attach a second ball of yarn. Work across the required number of stitches with the ball you've been knitting with. Now the instructions will probably tell you to either bind off some stitches or place them on a holder. If you are going to bind them off, attach a second ball of yarn and then do so. Now work across the remaining stitches with the second ball of yarn. You will now have two balls attached. Work one side with one ball according to the directions, then work the other side. Using this method, you are assured of working the exact number of rows on both sides.
As an alternative, after binding off or placing the neck stitches on a holder, you can place the remaining stitches on a holder. After you have completed one side, place these stitches back on the needles and work them until they match the first side.
Do I have to work a gauge swatch? Why can't I just use the needles the pattern tells me to?
Sorry, but the answer is yes you have to work a gauge swatch...that is, if you want your project to be the correct size. Too few stitches per inch and it will be too big. Too many stitches per inch and it will be too small. The needle size indicated in the pattern is only a suggestion for a place to start. The designer obtained the gauge of the pattern with that needle size. It doesn't mean you will knit to the same gauge. You should always, always, always use whatever size needles you need to in order to obtain the gauge of the pattern.
Even half a stitch per inch will make a huge difference in the outcome so please don't ignore this part of the process. Not convinced you have to swatch first? Let's look at an example. Say you're knitting a sweater with a chest measurement of 40". The back and front will each be 20". The pattern calls for a gauge of 4 stitches to the inch which means you will be working over 80 stitches on the front and 80 on the back (20 x 4 = 80 or 80 / 4 = 20). Suppose you knit to 4.5 stitches to the inch instead. The back and front of your sweater will now only be 17.78" each (80 / 4.5 = 17.78) and not 20". Instead of your sweater measuring 40" when complete, it will only measure 35.56". Clearly, it will be much smaller than you intended. Wasted yarn, wasted time and an unhappy knitter. So swatch and measure!
Do I have to use the same dye lot?
There is a difference in dye lots and it will show. Sometimes it's subtle and sometimes it's very noticeable.
If you run out of yarn and cannot find the same dye lot, the best thing to do is to take what you have to the store and try to get the best match. Look at it in natural and artificial light if possible. Then work alternating rows with the two different dye lots to lessen the effect of knitting with a second dye lot. It's not perfect and you will still see the difference in most cases.
Which rows do I increase on if my pattern says to increase every "x" row?
The actual row numbers may vary depending on the pattern. These are simply examples to help you see the logic:
To increase every other row, increase on rows 1 and 3.
To increase every third row, increase on rows 1 and 4.
To increase every fourth row, increase on rows 1 and 5.
How do I add a new ball of yarn when I run out?
For a new knitter, it is best to add the new ball at the beginning of a row. Simply start knitting with the new ball. Weave in the ends into the seam when finishing your project.
How do I knit with two strands of yarn at the same time?
Working with two balls of yarn, hold one strand of yarn from each ball together. Just pretend it was a single strand. Knit with them both as if it was a single strand. There is no need to twist them together or do anything special. Be sure you use both strands at all times.
Can I convert a crochet pattern to a knitting pattern?
No you can't. Crocheting uses different stitches than knitting; they look different and they are not the same size or shape. Essentially, the project must be redesigned as a knitting pattern and this is not recommended for new knitters.
How do I make the pattern larger or smaller? Can't I just use larger or smaller needles?
Using larger or smaller needles will give you no control over the final size (see the information about working a gauge swatch above). It might fit, it might not. You're really just guessing using this method. To avoid disappointment, please don't do this.
It is possible to make the pattern larger or smaller; however, you will need to know quite a bit about how patterns work and garments are constructed in order to redesign the pattern at a larger or smaller size. As you learn, feel free to explore this area but as a new knitter, it's best to stick to a pattern as written.
What does it mean when a pattern says end with WS or RS?
Sometimes a pattern will be specific and say "End with WS completed, RS ready to begin". Other times, it will simply say "End with WS". This means work the wrong side row and stop there. You will begin the next part of the pattern working on the right side; that is, the right side will be facing you as you work.
What does work even mean?
Work even means to work in the pattern stitch without increasing or decreasing. Usually, the pattern will say something like "Work even for 10 inches".
See also Knitting instructions for beginers
Knitting instructions
If you are among the thousands of people learning to knit, chances are you have a lot of questions. Don't despair...and please don't feel "silly" or "stupid". Tons of beginning knitters have the same exact question! Here are the answers to Frequently Asked Questions by new knitters.
What is stockinette stitch?
When you knit one row and purl the next and continue alternating between knit and purl rows, one side of the fabric is smooth and the other side "bumpy". The smooth side is stockinette. It is sometimes called stocking stitch. It means the same thing.
What is reverse stockinette stitch?
The bumpy side of stockinette.
What is garter stitch?
When you knit every row, then you have made what is called garter stitch. It takes more rows to produce an inch of fabric in garter stitch than stockinette. Garter stitch lies flat.
My project knit in stockinette rolls in. Did I do something wrong?
You did nothing wrong. This is simply the nature of the fabric produced by stockinette. If you are knitting something that will be seamed, such as a sweater, it will be fine once you have sewn the pieces together. If you are knitting a piece that will not be seamed, such as an afghan or a scarf, then you don't want it to roll but rather it should lie flat. Try putting an easy seed stitch border around it and it will lie flat.
What is meant by right side?
This does not mean right vs. left. It means the right side of the fabric; that is, the side that will show on the outside.
How do I work both sides at once?
This is generally done when you are shaping the neck on the front of a sweater. To work both sides at once, you will need to attach a second ball of yarn. Work across the required number of stitches with the ball you've been knitting with. Now the instructions will probably tell you to either bind off some stitches or place them on a holder. If you are going to bind them off, attach a second ball of yarn and then do so. Now work across the remaining stitches with the second ball of yarn. You will now have two balls attached. Work one side with one ball according to the directions, then work the other side. Using this method, you are assured of working the exact number of rows on both sides.
As an alternative, after binding off or placing the neck stitches on a holder, you can place the remaining stitches on a holder. After you have completed one side, place these stitches back on the needles and work them until they match the first side.
Do I have to work a gauge swatch? Why can't I just use the needles the pattern tells me to?
Sorry, but the answer is yes you have to work a gauge swatch...that is, if you want your project to be the correct size. Too few stitches per inch and it will be too big. Too many stitches per inch and it will be too small. The needle size indicated in the pattern is only a suggestion for a place to start. The designer obtained the gauge of the pattern with that needle size. It doesn't mean you will knit to the same gauge. You should always, always, always use whatever size needles you need to in order to obtain the gauge of the pattern.
Even half a stitch per inch will make a huge difference in the outcome so please don't ignore this part of the process. Not convinced you have to swatch first? Let's look at an example. Say you're knitting a sweater with a chest measurement of 40". The back and front will each be 20". The pattern calls for a gauge of 4 stitches to the inch which means you will be working over 80 stitches on the front and 80 on the back (20 x 4 = 80 or 80 / 4 = 20). Suppose you knit to 4.5 stitches to the inch instead. The back and front of your sweater will now only be 17.78" each (80 / 4.5 = 17.78) and not 20". Instead of your sweater measuring 40" when complete, it will only measure 35.56". Clearly, it will be much smaller than you intended. Wasted yarn, wasted time and an unhappy knitter. So swatch and measure!
Do I have to use the same dye lot?
There is a difference in dye lots and it will show. Sometimes it's subtle and sometimes it's very noticeable.
If you run out of yarn and cannot find the same dye lot, the best thing to do is to take what you have to the store and try to get the best match. Look at it in natural and artificial light if possible. Then work alternating rows with the two different dye lots to lessen the effect of knitting with a second dye lot. It's not perfect and you will still see the difference in most cases.
Which rows do I increase on if my pattern says to increase every "x" row?
The actual row numbers may vary depending on the pattern. These are simply examples to help you see the logic:
To increase every other row, increase on rows 1 and 3.
To increase every third row, increase on rows 1 and 4.
To increase every fourth row, increase on rows 1 and 5.
How do I add a new ball of yarn when I run out?
For a new knitter, it is best to add the new ball at the beginning of a row. Simply start knitting with the new ball. Weave in the ends into the seam when finishing your project.
How do I knit with two strands of yarn at the same time?
Working with two balls of yarn, hold one strand of yarn from each ball together. Just pretend it was a single strand. Knit with them both as if it was a single strand. There is no need to twist them together or do anything special. Be sure you use both strands at all times.
Can I convert a crochet pattern to a knitting pattern?
No you can't. Crocheting uses different stitches than knitting; they look different and they are not the same size or shape. Essentially, the project must be redesigned as a knitting pattern and this is not recommended for new knitters.
How do I make the pattern larger or smaller? Can't I just use larger or smaller needles?
Using larger or smaller needles will give you no control over the final size (see the information about working a gauge swatch above). It might fit, it might not. You're really just guessing using this method. To avoid disappointment, please don't do this.
It is possible to make the pattern larger or smaller; however, you will need to know quite a bit about how patterns work and garments are constructed in order to redesign the pattern at a larger or smaller size. As you learn, feel free to explore this area but as a new knitter, it's best to stick to a pattern as written.
What does it mean when a pattern says end with WS or RS?
Sometimes a pattern will be specific and say "End with WS completed, RS ready to begin". Other times, it will simply say "End with WS". This means work the wrong side row and stop there. You will begin the next part of the pattern working on the right side; that is, the right side will be facing you as you work.
What does work even mean?
Work even means to work in the pattern stitch without increasing or decreasing. Usually, the pattern will say something like "Work even for 10 inches".
See also Knitting instructions for beginers
Knitting instructions
February 16, 2008
by Barbara Breiter
Binding off is sometimes referred to as casting off. They mean the same thing.
You will need to bind off in order to remove your knitting from the needles when finished. It is also necessary to bind off stitches when knitting the armholes of sweaters and at various other times.
Knit two stitches.
Insert the left needle into the front loop of the first stitch you knit on the right needle, from left to right.
Pull the stitch over the second stitch on the right needle and off. One stitch is bound off.
Knit one stitch (you'll now have two stitches on the right needle), pull the first stitch over the second stitch and off the right needle. Continue until you have bound off the required number of stitches.
Sometimes a pattern will tell you to "BO in pattern". This means to knit or purl each stitch as called for in the pattern that you are binding off, instead of knitting all of them.
Knitting instructions for all
Binding off is sometimes referred to as casting off. They mean the same thing.
You will need to bind off in order to remove your knitting from the needles when finished. It is also necessary to bind off stitches when knitting the armholes of sweaters and at various other times.
Knit two stitches.
Insert the left needle into the front loop of the first stitch you knit on the right needle, from left to right.
Pull the stitch over the second stitch on the right needle and off. One stitch is bound off.
Knit one stitch (you'll now have two stitches on the right needle), pull the first stitch over the second stitch and off the right needle. Continue until you have bound off the required number of stitches.
Sometimes a pattern will tell you to "BO in pattern". This means to knit or purl each stitch as called for in the pattern that you are binding off, instead of knitting all of them.
Knitting instructions for all
February 02, 2008
KNITTING INSTRUCTIONS ON DESIGNING LARGE SIZE KNITS FOR MEN
Knitting instructions
Thank you to everyone who replied via the list and who sent me
personal mail. Since I get the list in Digest and was absolutely
inundated by excellent advice, It's much easier post my reply here
rather than write back to everyone individually. Please do not be
offended by my broadcast of my thanks at the expense of personal
replies.
Your suggestions and knitting instructions were all very valuable. I recap the major points of
feedback, in case others are interested:
1. An Aran in a very large size will be an very heavy yarn-intense
finished garment, and will be extremely warm. It will also cost a
fortune in yarn.
This is exactly what I want. The recipient is looking for an dense
and warm sweater to wear outdoors/indoors through Boston winters, and
in an imperfectly heated Victorian house undergoing continual
restoration.
The cost IS something I'm worrying about. Maybe I will be able to
find a source of suitable real wool when the yarn shops have their
summer sales.
2. Because of the weight of the finished garment and the unflattering
lines on most larger body shapes, raglan sleeves are not advised.
Good point. The weight of the yarn itself would probably distend
the shoulders - especially in raglan shaping. I'm thinking of using a
modified saddle shoulder - perhaps reinforcing with a stable lining
the uppermost tab section of the sleeves where they join the front and
back to make the upper surface of the shoulders.
3. Whatever ease you usually calculate, double it because of the
weight of the yarn and the density of the textured patterns used.
Also, many "short in front" problems are caused by insufficient width,
and are only exacerbated by insufficient length.
More excellent points. I will make sure the width is sufficient.
My spy (Mrs. Recipient) is sending me a dress shirt she made for the
target that fits him smoothly without straining. I'll scale my
measurements up from that.
4. Use the make-a-muslin method described in the Threads magazine
article on large size knitting for women. Don't make this a surprise
gift.
Good advice for obvious reasons. I think the dress shirt solution
will take care of this problem. Because I made an Aran for Mrs.
Recipient that our target has commented on longingly many, many times,
I know that the gift will be appreciated.
5. You don't have to make the front and back identical, many
traditional Arans feature different patterns on the two sides.
A wonderful idea! I am one of those knitters who hates doing
anything twice. If I'm knitting flat I work the two fronts of a
cardigan, or two sleeves at the same time because I detest doing the
second. I'll keep the same proportions and numbers of pattern panels
front and back, but I'll use different cables and whatnot on each
side. I may even do this for the sleeves, but I will use the same
featured center panel on both sleeves so they don't look mismatched.
The rectangular pieces used in saddle shaping should make this easier.
6. The depth of the armscye (armhole from shoulder point to underarm
seam) should definately be deeper than just scaling up proportionally
will allow. You should taper the sleeves to eliminate bulk from elbow
to wrist, but the upper arm set in must be deep enough to keep the
sweater from pulling across the chest.
Will do.
7. Books/Articles that will help
"Designing Knitwear" by Deborah Newton, a Threads book (has the
Threads article in it)
"The Knitter's Guide to Sweater Design" by Carmen Michelson and
Mary-Ann Davis, published by Interweave Press
...article in Knitters, probably by Medrith Glover
...Beth Brown-Reinsel's Knitting ganseys book
M. Righetti's "Knitting in Plain English". <-- highly recommended
Again, thanks to all. I get a lot of enjoyment from being a member of
the vicarious knitting family here. I don't know if everyone realizes
the depth of experience and expertise jointly possessed in this
family, but it is impressive - and best of all, happily shared for
love of the craft.
Kim Brody Salazar kim.salazar@em.doe.gov
Seabrook, MD
Knitting instructions
Gift baskets for all occasions
Knitting instructions
Thank you to everyone who replied via the list and who sent me
personal mail. Since I get the list in Digest and was absolutely
inundated by excellent advice, It's much easier post my reply here
rather than write back to everyone individually. Please do not be
offended by my broadcast of my thanks at the expense of personal
replies.
Your suggestions and knitting instructions were all very valuable. I recap the major points of
feedback, in case others are interested:
1. An Aran in a very large size will be an very heavy yarn-intense
finished garment, and will be extremely warm. It will also cost a
fortune in yarn.
This is exactly what I want. The recipient is looking for an dense
and warm sweater to wear outdoors/indoors through Boston winters, and
in an imperfectly heated Victorian house undergoing continual
restoration.
The cost IS something I'm worrying about. Maybe I will be able to
find a source of suitable real wool when the yarn shops have their
summer sales.
2. Because of the weight of the finished garment and the unflattering
lines on most larger body shapes, raglan sleeves are not advised.
Good point. The weight of the yarn itself would probably distend
the shoulders - especially in raglan shaping. I'm thinking of using a
modified saddle shoulder - perhaps reinforcing with a stable lining
the uppermost tab section of the sleeves where they join the front and
back to make the upper surface of the shoulders.
3. Whatever ease you usually calculate, double it because of the
weight of the yarn and the density of the textured patterns used.
Also, many "short in front" problems are caused by insufficient width,
and are only exacerbated by insufficient length.
More excellent points. I will make sure the width is sufficient.
My spy (Mrs. Recipient) is sending me a dress shirt she made for the
target that fits him smoothly without straining. I'll scale my
measurements up from that.
4. Use the make-a-muslin method described in the Threads magazine
article on large size knitting for women. Don't make this a surprise
gift.
Good advice for obvious reasons. I think the dress shirt solution
will take care of this problem. Because I made an Aran for Mrs.
Recipient that our target has commented on longingly many, many times,
I know that the gift will be appreciated.
5. You don't have to make the front and back identical, many
traditional Arans feature different patterns on the two sides.
A wonderful idea! I am one of those knitters who hates doing
anything twice. If I'm knitting flat I work the two fronts of a
cardigan, or two sleeves at the same time because I detest doing the
second. I'll keep the same proportions and numbers of pattern panels
front and back, but I'll use different cables and whatnot on each
side. I may even do this for the sleeves, but I will use the same
featured center panel on both sleeves so they don't look mismatched.
The rectangular pieces used in saddle shaping should make this easier.
6. The depth of the armscye (armhole from shoulder point to underarm
seam) should definately be deeper than just scaling up proportionally
will allow. You should taper the sleeves to eliminate bulk from elbow
to wrist, but the upper arm set in must be deep enough to keep the
sweater from pulling across the chest.
Will do.
7. Books/Articles that will help
"Designing Knitwear" by Deborah Newton, a Threads book (has the
Threads article in it)
"The Knitter's Guide to Sweater Design" by Carmen Michelson and
Mary-Ann Davis, published by Interweave Press
...article in Knitters, probably by Medrith Glover
...Beth Brown-Reinsel's Knitting ganseys book
M. Righetti's "Knitting in Plain English". <-- highly recommended
Again, thanks to all. I get a lot of enjoyment from being a member of
the vicarious knitting family here. I don't know if everyone realizes
the depth of experience and expertise jointly possessed in this
family, but it is impressive - and best of all, happily shared for
love of the craft.
Kim Brody Salazar kim.salazar@em.doe.gov
Seabrook, MD
Knitting instructions
Gift baskets for all occasions